This month, we feature a modern day legend and one of the highlights of our extensive 2004 retrospective.
The Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht is quite a mythical Estate. Situated in the Pfalz, it produces a range of wines from its "House" vineyard, the Kallstadter Saumagen, which is situated on a soil of calcareous limestone. This gives the Estate's Rieslings a distinctively mineral side. Winemaking is traditional, with fermentation and aging mostly done in traditional large casks.
What sets this Estate among the hall of fame of dry Riesling are its R and RR bottlings. These wines are made from special casks but the bottles are retained at the Estate until it deems them ready for drinking. The estate has produces dry R and even RR bottlings as either Spätlese or Auslese and did also produce off-dry R bottlings, such as the magnificent 2002er Auslese R which we featured in the Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 18 (Apr 2012).
These wines can be among the finest Riesling made on earth and it is rightfully that this Estate is revered by Riesling afficionados throughout the world.
The 2004er Auslese Trocken R is quite a mythical dry Riesling by now. The Estate hit the bull's eye in 2004 as this wine, which started life on the shy side, grew to gain in presence yet remain incredibly compelx and elegant. We wish everyone who has not yet tasted this wine to get a sip of it in order to experience how thrilling and fascinating great dry Riesling can be.
The full "10 Years After" 2004 Riesling retrospective with over 100 wines resampled can be found in the Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 24 (Mar 2014). This issue is available to subscribers on simple request. Not yet a subscriber? You can become one, free of charge, by simply registering yourself here below.
Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken R
From the first smell, the absolutely awesome nose of this wine takes one into a completely different world. The aromatics are almost fruitless, with impressive and almost saturating flavors of smoke and herbs, including flint, thyme, oregano, mint and many more. There is actually no noticeable trace of grape variety, just stone and herbs. The wine impresses on the palate with an intense smoky profile mixed with citrusy fruits. The wine has incredible presence and even weight but at the same time it glides on the palate in a seamlessly airy way. The length is breathtaking and this simply sets new standards for dry Riesling in and outside Germany. Now-2034
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.