This stunning highlight of our extensive 2006 “10-Years-After” retrospective is a timeless tribute to the greatness of Mosel’s noble sweet wines.
Mosel Riesling blossoms as it matures. Every year, we dedicate the Spring Issue of Mosel Fine Wines to the beauty of mature Mosel. This includes the largest "10-Years-After" Riesling retrospectives made anywhere in the world.
The retrospective of the 2006 vintage just published in Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 30 (Mar 2016) underlined the incredible botrytis elegance of its dessert wines. At their best, they are some of the finest ever in the Mosel. From all we understand from the older makers, 2006 is a remake of the mythical 1949 vintage.
Among these dessert wines, the 2006er Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr crafted by Thomas Haag at his Weingut Schloss Lieser was a huge stand-out and is on track to be one of the finest examples from the vintage.
The Weingut Schloss Lieser can look back to an illustrious history. The Estate and castle were set up by the Freiherr von Schorlemer, a founding member of the VDP who, at the height of his glory, owned no less than 45 ha of vineyards stretching from Zeltingen down to Serrig.
After a down period in the 1970s and 1980s, Thomas Haag, a son of Wilhelm Haag of Weingut Fritz Haag, took over the Estate (without the castle which followed a separate destiny). He painstakingly revamped it, more than aptly helped in this by Philipp Veser, who besides being a gifted viticulturist and winemaker is one of the greatest connoisseurs of Mosel wines.
The holdings, first centered around Lieser (and Graach), gradually extended to Brauneberg, then to Wehlen and, since this year, to Piesport and the Bernkasteler Doktor.
The unique style of the Estate based on initial reduction, aromatic precision, some intensity but above all purity rapidly won over the heart of Mosel wine lovers throughout the world.
As Thomas Haag mentioned it, the soft spot of 2006 were dessert wines: “We did not produce any dry wine in 2006 as botrytis spread like wildfire. However, I did produce some dessert wines, including two TBA, but quantities were frightfully low as we had to make severe selections.”
The 2006er Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese GK was made from botrytized fruit harvested at over 120° Oechsle, i.e. at BA level. While very high, this is not something rare in this vintage in which sugar levels soared under the impact of botrytis.
The wine proves a stunning success as the aromatic purity is simply staggering. On the whole, our retrospective tasting underlined how well the Estate excelled at dessert wines in 2006. Those fortunate enough to own some bottles will be in for quite a treat in a few years’ time, when these will have reached matured.
A review of the stunning 2006 Schloss Lieser wines
was published in Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 30 (Mar 2016).
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Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GK
Harvested at over 120° Oechsle, this amazing wine still proves quite closed on the nose and only hints at some subdued scents of almond paste, toffee and yellow peach at this stage. However, it does already more than hint at its stunning beauty on the palate. Here, a playful and delicately creamy structure provides the right framing to staggeringly complex and deep flavors of honey, apricot, yellow peach, ginger and fine herbs. Far from being overpowering, everything is superbly delicate and finely multi-layered. A touch of almond cream puts the finishing touch to this little jewel of a wine in the finish. While already admirable now, this will need another decade or so to reveal its full beauty. Honestly, we cannot wait to taste this again! 2026-2056
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling ... and beyond!"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.