The 2014 vintage was highly contrasted in quality. That great dry wine was possible is shown by this beauty from a new vineyard in the portfolio of A.J. Adam. Here is the story.
The Mosel Vintage 2014 proved a remarkably contrasted vintage with true strokes of genius right next to the ordinary (to remain polite). Never have we experienced such a huge diversity in quality and style as in 2014.
Besides some glorious Kabinett wines, the vintage did also yield a few stunning dry tasting wines. How good these dry wines can be is shown a superb Dhroner Häs’chen by the Weingut A.J. Adam.
Andreas Adam (joined by his sister Barbara since) relaunched the family Estate in 2000 after his grandparents had stopped it in 1983. He immediately captured the attention of the international press and wine lovers through stunningly deep wines from the then somewhat forgotten Dhroner Hofberg vineyard, one of the premier hills in the Mosel at the turn to the 20th century. We also feature his wines as wine of the month regularly, including most recently his 2012er Dhroner Hofberg Kabinett.
In 2014, the Estate outdid itself and produced a superb collection of clean and pure wines, a success which Andreas Adam put to ruthless selections and speed: “We started our harvest early, which proved no issue as the grapes were ripe, and stuck to ruthless selections, even leaving at the end grapes hanging in several parcels as quality was no longer there."
The Dhroner Häs’chen is a new vineyard in the portfolio of the Weingut A.J. Adam. As Andreas Adam mentioned, “I got offered to lease this vineyard last year and did not take long to decide as this vineyard, a Monopole, is an east-facing steep slope on the west bank of the Mosel and still planted with old un-grafted vines.” This tiny 0.3 ha vineyard oversees the Mosel and is on a rather stony soil of grey slate.
2014 was the first vintage of this vineyard at the Andreas' hands and he produced right from the start a stunning dry wine full of character and presence: “We decided to use this east-facing vineyard for lighter styled wines. The first vintage, which we made from fruit harvested at a modest 89° Oechsle, showed us the potential of the vineyard. The wine is elegant, without being unnecessary showy, and in nice contrast to the more ostentatious wines from the Dhroner Hofberg on the other side of the Mosel."
This debut vintage is a roaring success, also because the wine manages to keep some freshness on top of multi-layered aromatic intensity.
A review of the 2014 A.J. Adam wines can be found in Part I of the 2014 Vintage Report published in Issue No 28 (June 2015). This Issue is available to subscribers on simple request. Not yet a subscriber? You can become one, free of charge, by simply registering yourself here below.
Dhroner Häs'chen Riesling Trocken
This is the first vintage by Andreas Adam of this tiny 0.3 ha Monopole vineyard situated on a steep east-facing slope on the left bank of the Mosel. The wine is superbly well balanced with gorgeously fresh fruits on the nose including cassis, pear, candied grapefruit and mirabelle, paired with some herbs and spices. The feel on the palate is animating, both intense and delicate in a perfect blend of “breadth and breed.” The finish is playfully long. This is a gorgeous success! 2017-2029
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.