2014 is a hugely contrasted vintage, with disappointments but also a few gems such as this Kabinett. Andreas Barth and Swen Klinger provide some background.
The Mosel Vintage 2014 proved a remarkably contrasted vintage with true strokes of genius right next to the ordinary (to remain polite). Never have we experienced such a huge diversity in quality and style as in 2014.
But the vintage had one major strength, at least for the successful ones: It produced some stunning Kabinett wines, which are among the finest since the 1990s. This includes a superb Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett by Weingut von Othegraven, which is deep and retains the glorious playfulness of Kabinett.
After a few vintages in which the Estate’s wines showed more body and weight, Weingut von Othegraven is back with a superbly light and elegant set of fruity-styled wines in 2014. This has been a clear objective, as Andreas Barth and Swen Klinger, explain: “We are thriving for more lightness, more Spiel (play), above all in our Kabinett”. This certainly has happened in 2014!
When asking about the Wiltinger Kupp, Andreas Barth sees the strength of this vineyard in being a middle ground between the deeper Ockfener Bockstein and the more complex Kanzemer Altenberg: “The Kupp shines through its cool and very precise aromatics. It is often quite charming right from the start while the wines from the Bockstein and Altenberg usually need more time.”
This 2014er Wiltinger Kupp is not particularly open, but then hardly any 2014er wine is at this stage. Besides its superbly cool and focused aromatics pointed out by Andreas Barth, what sets this wine apart from others is the superb playfulness and lightness on the palate. This stunning beauty, cut from the mold of the 1990s, will provide ravishing at maturity!
A review of the 2014 von Othegraven wines can be found in Part I of the 2014 Vintage Report published in Issue No 28 (June 2015). This Issue is available to subscribers on simple request. Not yet a subscriber? You can become one, free of charge, by simply registering yourself here below.
Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett
This utter beauty harvested at no more than 80° Oechsle from 30-60 years-old vines is a model of light and playful Kabinett. The wine is still on the backward side on the nose, where spices, herbs and slate-infused smoke give only gradually way to superbly subtle and elegant scents of ripe lemon peel, grapefruit and more minty herbs. What sets this wine apart is the absolutely ravishing feel on the palate, which is focused, playful and seemingly weightless. Yet, the wine delivers gloriously juicy flavors of wet stone, lemon juice and herbs in the after taste. This is already a gorgeous even if somewhat shy wine but this could turn into a stunner with age if the aromatics grow in presence. 2024-2044
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.